From beast to beauty, follow our reconstruction of a devastated Mako powerboat into a modernized beauty. TJ and Mike, two employees of Jamestown Distributors, will share their project as a sounding board for other kindred backyard/garage fiberglass boat restorers burning the midnight candle. Your comments are always welcome, be it advice, shared experience, constructive criticism or just good-humored verbal abuse.
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Wednesday, December 9, 2009
Better Limber Holes
This article from Professional BoatBuilder has excellent ideas on designing bulletproof stringers and bulkheads that will last. It talks about the issue of limber holes, those passages through bulkheads and structural components to drain water to the lowest part of the bilge. "The Humble Limber Hole" by Bruce Pfund TJ and I plan to take a few pages from Bruce's book on the new stringers we'll be installing. Check it out.
Friday, December 4, 2009
Stringer Appeal
Installment XX in the chronicles of a Mako classic restoration
We are now ready to make some progress with stringers (longitudinal reinforcing beams on the hull.) The original stringers were marine plywood covered in a heavy fiberglass woven roving cloth and wet out with polyester resin. Holes called "limber holes" were cut to allow water to drain to the bilge. These vintage limber holes are a horror show. A hole saw cut through the beam left exposed wood core. Water migrated in and rotted these areas. The rotten core shows black through the fiberglass. Notice the cracked areas.
These beams bear the brunt of force when pounding through waves. Hard spots and rotted core spell failure.
To remedy this, our task is to grind these stringers off and replace with new. Rotten core has minimal strength and must be extracted. Spot repair and/or sistering in stringers supports is the easiest route with least time and expense. We're going for the gold- grind the old stringers flush, then replace with foam core stringers. We chose these pre-fabricated stringers by Prisma. Prisma Composite Preforms come in complete sections, ready to wet out. The fiberglass fabric is already bonded to the foam. Just bed in place then wet out.
To spec out the stringers, we carefully measured and snapped extensive pictures of the current hull stringers. Measurements should include:
We then emailed this info on to the folks at Prisma for technical consultation.
Without stringers, this boat will be loosey goosey. One concern with the upcoming phase will be to maintain hull shape. We must support the hull prior to removing the stringers to minimize distortion. Temporary braces across the gunwales and supports under the hull should maintain hull shape as best possible.
Thanks for joining us, and please check back for more.
We are now ready to make some progress with stringers (longitudinal reinforcing beams on the hull.) The original stringers were marine plywood covered in a heavy fiberglass woven roving cloth and wet out with polyester resin. Holes called "limber holes" were cut to allow water to drain to the bilge. These vintage limber holes are a horror show. A hole saw cut through the beam left exposed wood core. Water migrated in and rotted these areas. The rotten core shows black through the fiberglass. Notice the cracked areas.
These beams bear the brunt of force when pounding through waves. Hard spots and rotted core spell failure.
To remedy this, our task is to grind these stringers off and replace with new. Rotten core has minimal strength and must be extracted. Spot repair and/or sistering in stringers supports is the easiest route with least time and expense. We're going for the gold- grind the old stringers flush, then replace with foam core stringers. We chose these pre-fabricated stringers by Prisma. Prisma Composite Preforms come in complete sections, ready to wet out. The fiberglass fabric is already bonded to the foam. Just bed in place then wet out.
To spec out the stringers, we carefully measured and snapped extensive pictures of the current hull stringers. Measurements should include:
- angle of deadrise (angle of the hull to perpendicular)
- length of each stringer
- depth of each stringer
We then emailed this info on to the folks at Prisma for technical consultation.
Without stringers, this boat will be loosey goosey. One concern with the upcoming phase will be to maintain hull shape. We must support the hull prior to removing the stringers to minimize distortion. Temporary braces across the gunwales and supports under the hull should maintain hull shape as best possible.
This perspective shows the taper of stringers meeting the rise in the bow. |
Thanks for joining us, and please check back for more.
Thursday, December 3, 2009
Transom Wrap-up
Installment XIX in the chronicles of a Mako classic restoration
We measured out 5 parts 105 resin to 1 part 205 hardener by volume. When metering large amounts, it's much easier to pour than pump. This is where graduated mixing pots come in handy.
We wet out the first two biaxial strips on the table and transferred them to the boat.
We then proceeded wetting out the 6 ounce cloth, laid it in place and bubble busted once again with the laminating rollers.
We made incisions in the dry cloth at each of the sharp bends of the transom notch. The cuts are needed for the tape to lay flat. To make sure they aligned we marked the port/starboard sides with a permanent marker.
Holy cow- is that the time? Let's call it a night. Before heading out, dunk those laminating rollers in an acetone bath if you wish to use them again. Otherwise they become more spreader than roller ;P
We measured out 5 parts 105 resin to 1 part 205 hardener by volume. When metering large amounts, it's much easier to pour than pump. This is where graduated mixing pots come in handy.
We wet out the first two biaxial strips on the table and transferred them to the boat.
We then proceeded wetting out the 6 ounce cloth, laid it in place and bubble busted once again with the laminating rollers.
Gloves are getting pretty tacky at this point. Layering gloves is the way to go- just peel off a layer and keep on rolling. |
We made incisions in the dry cloth at each of the sharp bends of the transom notch. The cuts are needed for the tape to lay flat. To make sure they aligned we marked the port/starboard sides with a permanent marker.
Murphy's Law- the worst possible time for an irresistible itch on your nose |
Bubble busting with laminating rollers. |
Holy cow- is that the time? Let's call it a night. Before heading out, dunk those laminating rollers in an acetone bath if you wish to use them again. Otherwise they become more spreader than roller ;P
Thursday, November 26, 2009
Over the Top
Installment XVIII chronicling of the restoration of a classic Mako runabout
With prep work completed last week, we're ready to cap the top edge of the transom with fiberglass. We planned out a schedule of various cloth to encapsulate the transom top. To cover the top edge precisely, we cut 4" biaxial tape in 2" strips to lay down first. We then cut two progressively wider strips of 6 ounce boat cloth.
All 4 layers of cloth are laid out in order. Spreaders, a couple of laminating rollers, mixing pots, resin/hardener, mixing sticks, extra gloves - check. Looks like we're ready- let's wet this stuff out!
With prep work completed last week, we're ready to cap the top edge of the transom with fiberglass. We planned out a schedule of various cloth to encapsulate the transom top. To cover the top edge precisely, we cut 4" biaxial tape in 2" strips to lay down first. We then cut two progressively wider strips of 6 ounce boat cloth.
Sizing up some lighter cloth that will drape the hard corners. |
2 layers of Biax tape first covered with 2 increasingly larger widths of 6 ounce boat cloth |
Love these little electric shears. They cut through any cloth without making a frayed mess or destroying the weave. |
2 layers of biaxial tape and 2 wider layers of 6 oz cloth laid out in order on the table |
Let's get ready to roll. Gloves are a must for this part. |
All joking aside, pumps become tedious when measuring large volumes. Pull em out and pour by volume. |
"Hey, quit pointing that thing at me." |
All 4 layers of cloth are laid out in order. Spreaders, a couple of laminating rollers, mixing pots, resin/hardener, mixing sticks, extra gloves - check. Looks like we're ready- let's wet this stuff out!
Thursday, November 19, 2009
Taking the Edge Off
Installment XVII in the rebuild of a Mako center console
By next Wednesday's session the transom cured rock solid. Our goal tonight was to clean up her top edge so we can layer some fiberglass tape over it. The stiff biaxial cloth did not stay tacked on over the outside of the transom. The cured edges needed grinding back to where there was a solid bond (core to laminate). Great job for this Dyanbrade cut-off wheel.
Once all the stray glass was nibbed off, we followed up with the Rotex sander and ETS 125 sander to grind away any remaining un-bonded glass. We also gave all the freshly cured glass a quick wetsand to de-burr it and remove any traces of amine blush. The surface is now ready for TJ and I to cap it with several layers of fiberglass tape. But we'll tackle that next week.
By next Wednesday's session the transom cured rock solid. Our goal tonight was to clean up her top edge so we can layer some fiberglass tape over it. The stiff biaxial cloth did not stay tacked on over the outside of the transom. The cured edges needed grinding back to where there was a solid bond (core to laminate). Great job for this Dyanbrade cut-off wheel.
Almost done grinding stray edges off. |
Once all the stray glass was nibbed off, we followed up with the Rotex sander and ETS 125 sander to grind away any remaining un-bonded glass. We also gave all the freshly cured glass a quick wetsand to de-burr it and remove any traces of amine blush. The surface is now ready for TJ and I to cap it with several layers of fiberglass tape. But we'll tackle that next week.
Thursday, November 12, 2009
A Midsummer Interlude
For our devoted following, we could list a thousand excuses for the long hiatus since our last spring post.
But a picture is worth a 1000 words and excuses are for, ummmm, well, these two guys. Our apologies.
Here's what TJ and I were up to that kept Mako progress at bay...
But a picture is worth a 1000 words and excuses are for, ummmm, well, these two guys. Our apologies.
Here's what TJ and I were up to that kept Mako progress at bay...
Now back to our regular scheduled program...
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